Description

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How do waves break, and what makes good surf? What are dangerous rip currents, and how do you spot one? What should you do if you get caught in one?

Australia's best-known surf scientist, Rob "Dr. Rip" Brander, takes readers on a fascinating and entertaining journey to uncover how beaches form and behave, the science of waves and currents, and how beaches respond to storms and climate change. He explains where the sand we lay our towels on came from, how the tides that wash up new treasures each day work, why no two beaches are exactly the same, and why some of them are disappearing. He also explores some of the hazards to watch out for, from rip currents to tsunamis to the (unlikely) event you find yourself swimming with a shark.

Whether you're a surfer looking for the perfect wave or you just enjoy hitting the beach with friends and family, this book is a must-read for all ocean lovers.

About the Author

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Rob Brander is a coastal scientist and professor at the University of New South Wales Sydney who specializes in rip currents and beach safety. He has been giving talks on the "Science of the Surf" to the community and thousands of schoolchildren since 2001 and gained the nickname "Dr. Rip" for his habit of jumping into rip currents and releasing harmless purple dye. He is a past recipient of an Australian Museum Eureka Prize for Promoting Understanding of Australian Science Research and was appointed Member of the Order of Australia in 2023 for his service to coastal science and the Australian community through beach safety research and education.